Nicosia: A Tale of Two Cities
The Cypriot capital of Nicosia is literally a tale of two halves. The southern half, belonging to the Republic of Cyprus, and North Nicosia, capital of the UN-unrecognized Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus, are easily explored from either side. The city also acts as a fantastic base for sightseeing trips into north Cyprus, home to historically important locations such as St. Hilarion castle and the Ancient Salamis ruins.
Nicosia’s Venetian Walls and the Green Line
Nicosia’s most defining features are its impressive Venetian walls, which encircle the old city. Built in the 16th century as a grand fortification against Ottoman advances, these walls, with their distinctive star shape, stand as a testament to the city’s turbulent past. Although crumbling significantly, much of their original three-kilometer length is still in place, offering a tangible link to Nicosia’s Renaissance era.
The Famagusta Gate, among the three original gates, stands as the most well-preserved, adorned with numerous coats of arms. The passage here leads out from the old city to the old city’s empty moat area, once a bustling hub of activity and now a tranquil space for reflection.
Paphos Gate and the Roccas Bastion beside it are more interesting for their role in modern history. Here, the UN Buffer Zone between the Republic of Cyprus and northern Cyprus dwindles to less than 200 meters, a poignant symbol of the island’s division. Until 2003, this was the only place on the island where Greek Cypriots and Turkish Cypriots could get close up, a stark reminder of the separation that had characterized the island for decades.
Today, flags for all four countries in the unresolved dispute (Greece, the Republic of Cyprus, Turkey, and north Cyprus) flutter in the breeze as a reminder of this island’s unresolved woes. Walking along the walls, one can’t help but feel a sense of hope that the Green Line, once a symbol of division, might one day become a symbol of reunification and lasting peace.
The Cyprus Museum: A Journey Through Antiquity
The Cyprus Museum, housed in a stately building in Nicosia, stands as a testament to the island’s rich and varied history. This meticulously curated museum offers visitors a captivating journey through time, tracing the cultural evolution of Cyprus from the Neolithic period to the Byzantine era. Its extensive collection, a treasure trove of artifacts unearthed from various archaeological sites across the island, provides a comprehensive overview of Cyprus’s captivating past.
Stepping into the museum’s galleries is akin to embarking on a chronological adventure. The exhibits are arranged thematically and chronologically, allowing visitors to follow the progression of Cypriot civilization. From the rudimentary tools and pottery of the early settlers to the intricate jewelry and sculptures of later periods, each artifact tells a story, whispering tales of ancient rituals, artistic endeavors, and daily life.
Among the museum’s highlights is a remarkable collection of votive figures dating back to the 7th and 6th centuries BC. Unearthed at Ayia Irini, near Morphou, these figures, representing Minotaurs, warriors, and charioteers, offer a glimpse into the religious practices and beliefs of ancient Cyprus. Another noteworthy exhibit is the collection of Kanakaria Mosaics, exquisite Byzantine artworks that were stolen from a church in the Karpas Peninsula and later recovered, their journey a testament to the enduring power of art and the importance of cultural heritage.
A visit to the Cyprus Museum is an immersive experience, leaving visitors with a profound appreciation for the island’s enduring legacy and the threads of continuity that connect its ancient past to its vibrant present.
Büyük Han: A Historic Caravanserai
Stepping into the Büyük Han in North Nicosia is akin to stepping back in time. This grand edifice, a testament to the city’s rich mercantile past, stands as a magnificent example of Ottoman architecture and a poignant reminder of Nicosia’s role as a bustling trading hub on the Silk Road. Built in 1572 by the Ottomans, just a few years after their conquest of the island, the Büyük Han served as a caravanserai, offering weary travelers and merchants a welcome respite from their journeys.
The han’s imposing structure, with its massive stone walls, arched gateways, and central courtyard, speaks volumes about the Ottoman Empire’s architectural prowess. The design, typical of caravanserais of its era, was meticulously planned to accommodate the needs of travelers, providing them with shelter, stabling for their animals, and a secure space to conduct business. Today, the Büyük Han stands as a testament to the city’s enduring legacy of hospitality and cultural exchange.
Having undergone meticulous restoration, the Büyük Han has been returned to its former glory, offering visitors a glimpse into the grandeur of its past. The former sleeping quarters, once abuzz with the activity of merchants from distant lands, have been transformed into a vibrant hub of artisan workshops, traditional craft shops, and charming cafes. As one explores the han’s labyrinthine corridors and sun-drenched courtyards, the echoes of the past resonate, transporting visitors back to a time when Nicosia was a melting pot of cultures and a crossroads of civilizations.
The Byzantine Museum and Kanakaria Mosaics
Nestled within the Archbishop’s Palace in Nicosia, the Byzantine Museum houses a remarkable collection of religious art that offers a captivating glimpse into the island’s rich Byzantine heritage. For art enthusiasts and history buffs alike, the museum provides a unique opportunity to delve into the artistic traditions and religious practices that shaped Cyprus during the Byzantine and post-Byzantine periods.
The museum’s collection, spanning centuries of artistic endeavor, comprises an array of religious icons, frescoes, manuscripts, and sacred artifacts. Among its most treasured possessions is the collection of Kanakaria Mosaics, a testament to the enduring power of art and a symbol of resilience in the face of adversity. These 6th-century masterpieces, originally adorning the apse of the Panagia Kanakaria church in Lythrangomi, were looted following the Turkish invasion of 1974.
Their recovery, a tale worthy of an art world thriller, involved undercover operations, international collaborations, and a steadfast commitment to preserving cultural heritage. Today, the Kanakaria Mosaics stand as a poignant reminder of the importance of safeguarding artistic treasures and the power of international cooperation in rectifying acts of cultural despoilment. Their presence in the Byzantine Museum elevates the collection, offering visitors a rare opportunity to witness firsthand the splendor and spiritual depth of Byzantine art.
Selimiye Mosque: From Church to Mosque
Dominating the skyline of North Nicosia, the Selimiye Mosque stands as a poignant symbol of the island’s complex and layered history. Originally conceived as the grand Cathedral of Saint Sophia in the 13th century, this architectural masterpiece has borne witness to centuries of cultural shifts, religious transformations, and political upheavals, its very stones whispering tales of conquest, conversion, and coexistence.
The cathedral’s construction, a testament to the ambition and artistry of the Lusignan period, spanned over seven decades, finally completed in 1326. Its Gothic grandeur, with soaring arches, intricate stained-glass windows, and a sense of ethereal lightness, reflected the prevailing architectural trends of medieval Europe. However, the island’s conquest by the Ottomans in the 16th century ushered in a new era, one marked by the transformation of the cathedral into a mosque.
While the mosque retains the architectural skeleton of its Gothic past, the Ottoman imprint is evident in the additions of minarets, which pierce the heavens, and the mihrab, indicating the direction of prayer. This juxtaposition of architectural styles, a harmonious blend of Gothic elegance and Islamic simplicity, encapsulates the island’s multifaceted heritage. Today, the Selimiye Mosque stands as a testament to the fluidity of history and the enduring power of faith, inviting visitors to contemplate the threads of continuity and change that have shaped Nicosia’s urban fabric.
Exploring the Old Town’s Hidden Gems
Beyond Nicosia’s headline attractions lies a labyrinthine world of narrow, winding streets, secret gardens, and architectural treasures waiting to be discovered. The old town, encircled by the Venetian walls, reveals its secrets slowly, offering a glimpse into the city’s soul to those who venture beyond the well-trodden paths. Here, amidst the bustling markets, quaint cafes, and traditional workshops, lies a treasure trove of hidden gems, each whispering tales of bygone eras and forgotten lives.
Step off the main thoroughfares, and let the city’s rhythm guide your steps as you meander through narrow alleyways adorned with bougainvillea-draped balconies and hidden courtyards. Discover architectural wonders like the House of Hatzigeorgakis Kornesios, an impeccably preserved Ottoman mansion that offers a glimpse into the opulent lifestyle of a prominent 18th-century dragoman. Venture further to stumble upon the Omeriye Mosque, its tranquil courtyard a sanctuary of peace amidst the urban bustle, its 14th-century Lusignan entranceway a testament to the city’s layered past.
Seek solace in the dimly lit interiors of ancient churches, their walls adorned with vibrant frescoes that have withstood the test of time. The Panagia Chrysaliniotissa Church, a 15th-century gem considered the oldest in Nicosia, captivates with its serene ambiance, while the Agios Ionnis Church enchants with its exquisite 18th-century frescoes, a testament to the enduring power of faith expressed through art. Each step in Nicosia’s old town is a journey through time, a sensory experience that unveils the city’s rich tapestry of history, culture, and architectural splendor.
Churches and Museums of Old Nicosia
Old Nicosia, a tapestry woven from threads of various civilizations, reveals its soul through a captivating collection of churches and museums, each bearing witness to the city’s rich and complex past. Stepping into these hallowed halls and cultural repositories is akin to embarking on a journey through time, where each artifact, icon, and fresco whispers tales of faith, artistry, and human endeavor.
The city’s churches, with their weathered facades and tranquil interiors, stand as testaments to Nicosia’s enduring spirituality. From the Byzantine grandeur of the Tripiotis Church, adorned with intricate frescoes and shimmering mosaics, to the Armenian Apostolic Church of Sourp Asdvadzadzin, a sanctuary of peace tucked away amidst the bustling streets, each sacred space offers a glimpse into the diverse religious traditions that have shaped the city’s identity.
Complementing these sacred spaces are the museums, each a repository of knowledge and a testament to Nicosia’s rich cultural tapestry. The Leventis Municipal Museum of Nicosia, housed in a beautifully restored mansion, chronicles the city’s urban development through a fascinating collection of artifacts, photographs, and interactive exhibits. Meanwhile, the Nicosia Municipal Arts Centre, housed in the city’s former power station, showcases contemporary Cypriot and international art, bridging the gap between the city’s past and its vibrant present.
North Nicosia’s Ottoman Heritage
Stepping into North Nicosia is akin to stepping into a different era, one where the echoes of the Ottoman Empire still resonate through the city’s streets, architecture, and cultural fabric. This part of the city, once an integral part of the vast Ottoman realm, retains a distinct charm and character, offering a glimpse into a bygone era marked by cultural confluence and architectural splendor.
Beyond the grandeur of the Selimiye Mosque and the Büyük Han, North Nicosia’s Ottoman heritage unfolds through a captivating collection of mosques, hammams, and caravanserais, each whispering tales of the city’s past. The Haydar Pasha Hamam, a beautifully preserved 14th-century Turkish bath, invites visitors to experience the rituals of Ottoman relaxation and rejuvenation, its domed chambers and intricate tilework a testament to the empire’s architectural finesse.
Wander through the narrow streets of the Arabahmet neighborhood, where time seems to have stood still. Admire the elaborately decorated Ottoman houses, with their overhanging wooden balconies and hidden courtyards, each a testament to the city’s rich past. Explore the Bedesten, a 14th-century edifice that originally served as a church before being converted into a bustling marketplace during the Ottoman era. Today, it houses a charming collection of artisan workshops, offering a glimpse into traditional crafts and trades.
